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Gary Saretzky Photo Books

Horst: His Work and His World by Valentine Lawford.

Horst: His Work and His World by Valentine Lawford.

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Knopf, 1984.  First edition, hardcover with very good, slightly edge worn, protected dust jacket and red remainder mark at bottom of text block. Internally fine, sound binding. 396 pages, 299 photographs. Major biography of Horst, with extensive quotes by Horst, known primarily for his photography for Vogue and other major magazines. Includes many photos of motion picture, fashion, literary, fine art, and political celebrities, and top fashion models.  Mostly black and white photos with some color reproductions.  People portrayed in the photos include Marlene Dietrich; Ingrid Bergman; Veruschka; Suzy Parker; Edith Sitwell; Paloma Picasso; Andy Warhol; Truman Capote; Franco Zeffirelli; Alberto Moravia; Coco Chanel; Léon Blum; Gertrude Stein; David Alfaro Siqueiros; Harry S. Truman; Elsa Maxwell; Ginger Rogers; Merle Oberon; Duchess of Windsor; Myrna Loy; Loretta Young; Luchino Visconti; Mary Martin; Joan Crawford; Gary Cooper; Lisa Fonssagrives; Dovima; Gertrude Lawrence; George Hoyningen-Huene; Elsa Schiaparelli; Bette Davis; Condé Nast; Herbert Von Karajan, et al. Heavy book.  Note: reflections in the photos of the book accompanying this listing. Summary:

Horst: His Work and His World (1984), written by his longtime partner Valentine Lawford, is the definitive biographical and artistic retrospective of Horst P. Horst, one of the most influential fashion and portrait photographers of the 20th century. This sweeping volume traces Horst’s journey from his beginnings at the Bauhaus and his apprenticeship under Le Corbusier to his decades-long reign at Vogue.

Core Themes and Narrative

  • The "Mainbocher" Corset and Beyond: The book chronicles the creation of Horst's most iconic images, exploring his ability to blend the surrealist avant-garde with high-society elegance. It details his transition from pre-war Paris to mid-century New York.

  • Architectural Glamour: Lawford emphasizes Horst’s background in architecture, showing how he treated the human body and the fashion garment as structural elements. His work was not just about clothes; it was about the "construction of beauty."

  • The "World" of Horst: Beyond the studio, the book serves as a "Social Archive." It documents Horst’s interactions with the era’s elite—Coco Chanel, Marlene Dietrich, Salvador Dalí, and the Viscounts de Noailles—presenting a lifestyle where art, fashion, and high society were inextricably linked.


Visual and Technical "Finish"

  • The "Chiaroscuro" Master: Horst was a virtuoso of studio lighting. His "finish" is defined by dramatic, sculptural shadows and a "Cool Perfection" that made skin look like marble. He used light to "carve" his subjects out of the darkness.

  • The "Classicist" Precision: Unlike the motion-heavy "Snapshot" style that would later emerge, Horst’s work is characterized by a "Static Grandeur." Every fold of fabric and every tilt of a chin was meticulously "finished" to achieve an idealized, timeless symmetry.


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