Gary Saretzky Photo Books
Kane, Art. Paper Dolls by Art Kane.
Kane, Art. Paper Dolls by Art Kane.
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Melrose, 1984. First edition. Fine in hardcover with fine protected dust jacket. Like new. 135 pages. Art Kane’s fashion photographs, mostly of young beautiful women models, often nude or partially nude. Summary:
Paper Dolls (1984) is a visually arresting and conceptual monograph by the legendary American photographer Art Kane. While Kane was famously known for his "Harlem 1958" jazz portrait and his psychedelic rock photography, this book represents his more surrealist, fashion-forward, and highly structured studio work.
The Concept
The title Paper Dolls serves as a metaphor for the way the fashion industry and the camera can manipulate and "flatten" human subjects into two-dimensional icons. Kane utilizes a masterful mix of bold color, sharp graphic lines, and unusual perspectives to transform his models into sculptural, almost synthetic figures.
Visual Style and Techniques
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Graphic Surrealism: Kane often used bright, saturated colors and stark shadows to create images that felt more like pop art paintings than traditional photographs.
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The "Sandwich" Technique: He was a pioneer of the "sandwiching" process—stacking two or more color transparencies on top of one another—to create dreamlike, layered compositions without the aid of digital tools.
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Focus on Form: The book emphasizes the human body as a design element. Models are often posed in rigid, angular, or repetitive formations, mimicking the cut-out nature of actual paper dolls.
Themes
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Artifice vs. Reality: The book explores the tension between the living subject and the "manufactured" image.
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Eroticism and Geometry: Kane’s nudes and fashion shots in this collection are frequently more concerned with geometry and spatial relationships than with traditional sensuality.
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Dehumanization: By treating models as "dolls," Kane offers a subtle critique (or perhaps a celebration) of the transformative, and sometimes dehumanizing, power of the fashion lens.
Impact
Paper Dolls remains a cult favorite among photographers and art directors for its precision and innovation. It showcased how fashion photography could move beyond simply selling clothes to become a medium for complex visual experiments and social commentary.
